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The soil must be well
drained, either naturally or artificially. It must be rich; and the
manure should be thoroughly worked into the soil. Plow the land in
the autumn, and plow it again as early as possible in the spring. If
there is any rubbish, remove it or dig holes and bury it below the
reach of the plow. Then plow again, or work the land with a
cultivator. This work should be done when the soil is dry and the
weather warm. You cannot possibly stir the soil too much while the
sun is shining. It lets in the sun's rays and warms and and mellows
the soil. On light sandy soil, thoroughly and deeply plowed and
manured the fall previous, there are many crops which can be sown to
advantage without again plowing in the spring. It often happens in
this latitude that five or six inches of the surface soil in the
spring is thawed out and dry enough to work, while underneath the
ground is frozen solid. If we wait till this frozen soil can be
plowed, we frequently lose a good opportunity for putting in early
crops of peas, potatoes, onions, cabbage, lettuce, radish, spinach,
etc. And besides, the soil that we turn up with the plow, and which
comes to the surface, and in which we sow the seed, is cold and
damp, while the surface soil which we turn under is warn and dry.
From THE NATIONAL FARMER'S AND HOUSEKEEPER'S CYCLOPAEDIA, 1888
A quarter of an acre can be made equal to half an acre. You can
about double the garden, without adding to it an inch of surface, by
increasing the depth of good soil. For instance, ground has been
cultivated to the depth of six or seven inches - try the experiment
of stirring the soil and enriching it one foot downward, or eighteen
inches, or even two feet, and see what vast difference will result.
With every inch you go down, making all friable and fertile, you add
just so much more to root pasturage. When you wish to raise a great
deal, increase your leverage. Roots are your levers; and when they
rest against a deep fertile soil they lift into the air and sunshine
products that may well delight the eyes and palate of the most
fastidious. We suggest that this thorough deepening, pulverization,
and enriching of the soil be done at the start, when the plough can
be used without any obstructions. If there are stones, rocks, roots,
anything which prevents the treatment which a garden plot should
receive, there is a decided advantage in clearing them all out at
the beginning.
By E. P. Roe, from his 1886 book, THE HOME ACRE
Many gardens can never be brought into a state of great
productiveness on account of an excess of water in the soil. If the
soil be heavy, and continues wet and heavy in the spring, let it be
drained at once. After this, plough deep, pulverize thoroughly,
manure highly, keep the weeds subdued, and in a few years you will
have a garden that will produce anything that will grow in your
locality. If the soil is heavy, haul on muck, sawdust, manure, in
great abundance; and when such substances decay, the soil will be
light, mellow, and productive.
The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less retentive
will it be of moisture; the more to a clayey, the longer will it
retain moisture; and the finer the particles of which the clay is
composed, the more retentive will it be of water, and, consequently,
the longer in drying, and the harder when dry. But earth of a
consistence that will hold water the longest, without becoming hard
when dry, is, of all others, the best adapted for raising the
generality of plants in the greatest perfection. This last described
soil is called loam, and is a medium earth, between the extremes of
clay and sand.
A light, sandy soil will be benefited if worked when moist, as such
treatment will have a tendency to make it more compact; on the
contrary, if a clayey soil be worked when too wet, it kneads like
dough, and never fails to find when drought follows; and this not
only prevents the seed from rising, but injures the plants
materially in their subsequent growth, by its becoming impervious to
moderate rains, dews, air, and the influence of the sun, all of
which are necessary to the promotion of vegetation.
From the 1866 book, THE AMERICAN GARDENER'S ASSISTANT
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